Welcome to another issue of Just About the Glow.

The newsletter for women simplifying skincare, buying more selectively, and finding their way back to healthy, steady glow.

If this helps, forward it to someone overwhelmed by skincare noise.

In today's issue:

1. Why the famous 10-step K-beauty routine was never a Korean tradition

2. What a new dermatologist-led evidence review found about seven of K-beauty's most talked-about ingredients

3. Why fewer, better-chosen products are winning even inside the research

True or false: the 10-step Korean skincare routine has always been standard practice in South Korea.

Keep reading. We'll answer it at the end.

If you've ever felt behind because your routine only has four or five steps, this issue is for you.

A lot of guilt in skincare comes from a number: 10. Ten steps, ten products, ten reasons to feel like you're not doing K-beauty right.

A new evidence review just took that number apart, and it's worth reading closely if you've ever bought a product only because a routine chart said you needed one more step.

The 10-step routine has been repeated so often that it feels like established fact: this is how Korean women have always done skincare, and anything shorter is cutting corners.

It shows up in headlines, product bundles, and plenty of well-meaning advice. It also shapes how a lot of women shop, layering on step after step to feel like they're taking their skin seriously.

The trouble is, adding steps without a clear reason for each one doesn't just cost money. It also makes it harder to tell which product is actually helping and which one is just along for the ride, especially once your skin starts reacting to something in that longer lineup.

Two dermatologists just published a review that traces where that number actually came from, and it isn't where most people think.

According to a new evidence review from DermaVue Clinical Reviews, authored by board-certified dermatologist Dr. Minu Liz Mathew and Dr. Rejeesh Menon, the 10-step routine was a marketing invention from 2014, not a traditional Korean practice. The review notes that the average Korean woman uses around 8 products, and 28 percent use only 3 products in their morning routine.

More strikingly, the reviewers state plainly: no randomized controlled trial has demonstrated that a 10-step regimen produces superior clinical outcomes compared to a well-formulated 3-4 step protocol. That's not a style opinion. It's an evidence gap.

The review also graded the actual research behind seven of K-beauty's most talked-about ingredients. Niacinamide at 2 to 5 percent came out strong, with solid independent evidence behind it. Snail mucin and fermented Galactomyces filtrate landed lower, graded moderate at best, because the supporting studies are industry-funded only, not independently replicated.

Not everything in the review is a letdown for K-beauty. Korean sunscreen formulations draw on more than 30 approved UV filters, compared to 16 in the US, which is a genuine formulation advantage backed by regulation, not marketing. It's the kind of difference that actually holds up under scrutiny, unlike a step count that was invented to sell bundles.

None of this means K-beauty doesn't work. It means the step count was never the part doing the work.

A well-formulated 3 to 4 step routine covers what the evidence actually supports: a gentle cleanser, one active with strong independent evidence behind it (niacinamide is a reasonable place to start), a moisturizer suited to your skin's current needs, and a sunscreen, where Korean formulations do have a real, regulation-backed edge.

Ingredients like snail mucin or fermented filtrates aren't worthless. They're just optional, not foundational. If you enjoy them and your skin responds well, keep them as an extra, not as proof you're taking your routine seriously enough.

A useful test before adding any step: can you say, specifically, what that product is doing and why your skin needs it right now. If the honest answer is "because the routine chart said so," that's a step worth questioning, not one worth keeping out of guilt.

If you've been stretching your routine to hit a number, this is a good moment to drop back to what you can actually explain the purpose of, and stop there.

The goal was never 10 steps. It was never any specific number.

What actually holds up, according to the people studying it, is choosing fewer products and knowing exactly why each one earned its spot.

That's not a smaller way to do skincare. It's a more accurate one, and it happens to match what the evidence has been saying all along.

If this reframed something for you, forward it to a friend who still feels like she's falling short of a routine that was never real to begin with.

False.

According to a new dermatologist-authored evidence review, the 10-step routine was a 2014 marketing invention, not a longstanding Korean tradition. The average Korean woman uses around 8 products, and 28 percent use only 3 products in their morning routine. No randomized controlled trial has shown a 10-step routine outperforms a well-formulated 3 to 4 step protocol.

🌸 Before you go, explore what's worth it in k‑beauty right now

YesStyle - My go-to for trending K-beauty and glow-boosting skincare finds

GlassLogic GPT - AI skincare planner that helps you choose the right ingredients, avoid conflicts, and follow a smarter daily routine.

Emma Lee
Founder of Just About the Glow
Your glow guide to K-beauty, skincare, and what's worth it

Disclaimer: The content provided is for informational and educational purposes only and is not intended as medical or dermatological advice. Skincare recommendations, ingredient spotlights, and product reviews reflect personal opinions and general guidance, and may not be suitable for all skin types or concerns. Always perform a patch test before introducing new products and consult a licensed dermatologist or qualified healthcare professional for personalized advice. Individual results may vary based on skin type, sensitivities, lifestyle, and consistency of use. Any links to featured products or brands may include affiliate relationships, and readers are encouraged to conduct their own research before making purchasing decisions.